Northern Nigeria's commercial organ preserves its Fulani and Nigerian history and heritage amid its dusty clime. Carefully avoiding its tense areas, there's plenty to fascinate, from Tiga Dam's force of Nature to Gidan Makama Museum's anthropological treasures. Its markets are a chaotic gauntlet of trade and the City Walls resist time, while the Durbar Festival is an explosion of colourful celebration, as ornate horseman parades march through the Old Town.